ULUWATU, BALI

Uluwatu is like where you go on vacation, if you live in heaven year-round. It's all turquoise blue water, blood orange sunsets over majestic cliffs, fresh fruit juices and monkeys. Lots of mischievous (and brilliant) monkeys that steal your sunglasses to try and barter them back for bananas. 

Monkeys at Padang Padang beach. 

Monkeys at Padang Padang beach. 

This was after they jumped off the rock, egging each other on one by one, like a bunch of little dare devils. 

This was after they jumped off the rock, egging each other on one by one, like a bunch of little dare devils. 

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Surfers over Uluwatu cliff. 

Surfers over Uluwatu cliff. 

Scott under the cove at Suluban Beach. 

Scott under the cove at Suluban Beach. 

Uluwatu Road

Uluwatu ("ulu" meaning "lands end" and "watu" meaning "rock") is on the tip of Bukit Peninsula, trailed by 5 beautiful beaches: Balangan, the aptly named Dreamland, Bingin, Padang Padang and Suluban. The entire peninsula is sunny and mellow, everyone gets around via scooter and the main road (and it's many twisty turn offs) are sprinkled with fresh juice cafes, budget bungalow and villa homestays and epic views of the Indian Ocean. We first experienced the magic of Warung's (serve yourself Indonesian restaurants where you can get a massive plate of food for about $2 USD) here which have become a dinner staple. 

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Local banana shop. Bananas are delicious in their natural state, but especially so when they're caramelized and fried, as I've learned here.

Local banana shop. Bananas are delicious in their natural state, but especially so when they're caramelized and fried, as I've learned here.

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SurfUluwatu
Looking up at Single Fin. 

Looking up at Single Fin

Sunset_Uluwatu
Suluban sunset
Sunset at Bingin Beach. 

Sunset at Bingin Beach. 

Bingin_Sunset_2

Every morning in Uluwatu we'd wake up and I'd get bribed to roll out of bed with the promise of an iced (!) cappuccino and we'd cruise around on the scooter to look for the best surf spot. The rest of the day would be a mix of reading on the beach, surfing, yoga and stealing wifi to work in a local cafe. My favorite days ended with watching the sunset from either Suluban or Bingin beach with a fresh mango juice.

It truly does not get any better than Uluwatu. 

 

KUTA, BALI - INDONESIA

It's always slightly alarming when your connecting flight to Singapore lands in South Korea. But after 36 hours and a surprise pit stop at the Seoul airport, I finally landed in Indonesia. 

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A QUICK INTRODUCTION: Indonesia consists of a string of 13,466 islands that hug the waist of Earth, covering the distance from Anchorage, Alaska to Washington DC. I've chosen to spend my time here on a little island in the middle, called Bali. The country itself contains 360 ethnic groups that speak over 719 languages and there are 240 million people here, in total.

We had booked 2 nights in bustling Kuta, which is right outside the Denpasar airport, mostly to recover from the flight. Arriving there, you can really feel that Indonesia is the fourth most populous country in the world. It's super busy and very crowded. But about half the people around are Australian and German tourists. 

KutaShop

I had been to Kuta before on a "WOOOOH Spring Break!" type of trip, when I studied in Perth, Australia when I was 20. Kuta is essentially a Cancun for Australians. Back then I had a blast and came back with a plethora of cheap patterned sundresses and bootleg DVD's, but I wasn't looking to recreate that this time around. To be honest, Kuta is kiiind of a tourist hellhole. It's loud and dirty,  the beaches are filthy and you get pestered everywhere you go ("Taxi! Taxi?! Massage? Massage?! You want sunglass? I sell cheap!") which isn't an accurate first impression of the actually lovely and charming Balinese people.

My first recommendation for someone visiting Bali is to get out of Kuta ASAP. It is however, good for surfing, food and amazingly cheap massages to work out the lingering effects of an extremely long flight. So, we did all of that for 48 hours while staying at the very nice Manggar Indonesia Hotel (for about $20 USD a night) in a quiet part of town. 

These boats will take hardcore surfers (like Scott) out past the reef for the big waves while their girlfriends get the most spirited 60 minute massage of their life by a tiny Balinese woman for the equivalent of $4.50 USD. In Bali, I'm thismuchclos…

These boats will take hardcore surfers (like Scott) out past the reef for the big waves while their girlfriends get the most spirited 60 minute massage of their life by a tiny Balinese woman for the equivalent of $4.50 USD. In Bali, I'm thismuchcloser to my "if i had a disgusting amount of money" goal of having an in-house masseuse. It's superb. 

Ok so the beach doesn't actually look filthy. BUT IT IS. I swear to you. 

Ok so the beach doesn't actually look filthy. BUT IT IS. I swear to you. 

I got this Mie Goreng at a beach shack (like actual shack, not just a fun attempt at quirky decor) and I was raving about it until I saw that it was actually just made from a 2 minute noodle pack (to be fair, they did have a limited kitchen in …

I got this Mie Goreng at a beach shack (like actual shack, not just a fun attempt at quirky decor) and I was raving about it until I saw that it was actually just made from a 2 minute noodle pack (to be fair, they did have a limited kitchen in said shack) and then began to question why the 2 minute noodle dishes I often made during college were garbage compared to this one that again, was made in shack.  

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Little corner store where you can stock up on one of my favorite parts of traveling: weird foreign candy. 

Little corner store where you can stock up on one of my favorite parts of traveling: weird foreign candy. 

The hotel came with breakfast and I got an Indonesian dish that's basically like savory oatmeal made out of rice and chicken. I was into it. 

The hotel came with breakfast and I got an Indonesian dish that's basically like savory oatmeal made out of rice and chicken. I was into it. 

Here is Scott with freshly cut coconut water that cost approximately 10 cents (!). Makes you question all those times you bought $8 coconut waters after a hot yoga class because you thought you really needed those electrolytes.

Here is Scott with freshly cut coconut water that cost approximately 10 cents (!). Makes you question all those times you bought $8 coconut waters after a hot yoga class because you thought you really needed those electrolytes.

Super cute neighbors. 

Super cute neighbors. 

These little colorful baskets, called "Canang sari" are everywhere you step in Bali. They're daily offerings made by Balinese Hindus to their numero uno supereme God, Acintya. The direction which the flowers are placed symbolize various Hindu g…

These little colorful baskets, called "Canang sari" are everywhere you step in Bali. They're daily offerings made by Balinese Hindus to their numero uno supereme God, Acintya. The direction which the flowers are placed symbolize various Hindu gods and the idea is that the time and effort it takes to prepare each basket is a self-sacrifice, in gratitude for the peace there is in the world. You'll often find cookies on top too, because who doesn't want a cookie? Hindu God does. 

Going through these photos, I'm noticing that Kuta doesn't actually look so bad. Perhaps it's because puppies and pretty flowers make even the worst of spots photogenic. I maintain that when arriving in Bali, one should exit Kuta and get to the glorious parts of the island as soon as they can. That said, it's certainly not that hard to get a cheap massage (or a Bintang) and enjoy yourself, while you're there. 

END OF THE SUMMER

The last few weeks of August were spent back on the east coast -- celebrating, moving, packing and exploring all around Boston + New England. 

I turned 29 with this good looking group. We had a biiiig night out and I made sure that one of my favorite quotes, "If you aren't embarrassed by what you were doing last year then you aren't growing enough" will definitely ring true by August 21, 2…

I turned 29 with this good looking group. We had a biiiig night out and I made sure that one of my favorite quotes, "If you aren't embarrassed by what you were doing last year then you aren't growing enough" will definitely ring true by August 21, 2016. 

Afternoon at the Lawn on the D in South Boston. 

Afternoon at the Lawn on the D in South Boston. 

Birthday Partner for 17 years straight. 

Birthday Partner for 17 years straight. 

Birthday fish tacos in Fort Point. 

Birthday fish tacos in Fort Point. 

Trevor and Jay got hitched and it was truly a beautiful wedding in Lincoln. It was super smooth and effortlessly fun -- much like their relationship. 

Trevor and Jay got hitched and it was truly a beautiful wedding in Lincoln. It was super smooth and effortlessly fun -- much like their relationship. 

A night of scalped tickets and Fenway franks. 

A night of scalped tickets and Fenway franks. 

Boston Skyline
Scott's first baseball game. 

Scott's first baseball game. 

Downtown Boston
Visiting the Vanderbuilt Mansion in Newport, Rhode Island. 

Visiting the Vanderbuilt Mansion in Newport, Rhode Island. 

Inside the Vanderbuilt mansion, where they clearly ripped off Versailles. 

Inside the Vanderbuilt mansion, where they clearly ripped off Versailles

Newport, RI. 

Newport, RI. 

Portsmouth, NH.

Portsmouth, NH.

Jamaica Pond. 

Jamaica Pond. 

Visiting the Alma Mater. 

Visiting the Alma Mater. 

Scott's reaction to visiting the Old North Bridge in Concord, where the "shot heard round the world" was first fired starting the American Revolution: "So you Americans have always been shooting people, ay?"

Scott's reaction to visiting the Old North Bridge in Concord, where the "shot heard round the world" was first fired starting the American Revolution: "So you Americans have always been shooting people, ay?"

SAN FRANCISCO

Making our way through Monterey (where our bright green and purple camper van got caught right in the middle of a very large classic car parade, but we just smiled and waved through it) and Santa Cruz, we arrived in my favorite American city... San Francisco. 

Monterey

Monterey

"oh hey girl what up"

"oh hey girl what up"

Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz.

Making eggs in Golden Gate Park.

Making eggs in Golden Gate Park.

In front of a blurry Alcatraz.

In front of a blurry Alcatraz.

Walking all round, the hills and colors of San Francisco were delightful as ever and we met up with my homegirl (current SF resident) Lisa, for a bbq dinner.  We drove over the Golden Gate Bridge as Scott butchered the Full House theme song and I had my best surf yet in Ocean Beach.

After turning in our camper van at the JUCY office, we had a full day of exploring left so we got a rental car for the day to store our things and make our way around. I was absolutely thrilled about our successful road trip... until we walked back to the car after grabbing a quick coffee at the Ferry Building. Our rental car window had been smashed and half our things stolen. 

Right about when I was taking this photo, our car was getting broken into. 11 AM on a Friday morning!

Right about when I was taking this photo, our car was getting broken into. 11 AM on a Friday morning!

THAT SUCKED.  I've mentioned this before, but the universe really does have a pesky way of keeping you in check when everything is going a little too well.

Long story short (ish): I was a mix of relieved and insulted to find that the thieves dumped most of my things since they didn't find them to be of any value. Scott however, wasn't as fortunate.  Like any good former Cramer producer, I had all my contact information listed on my external hard drive... and like any lazy person, I didn't have a password on my laptop... so the good citizen who found my backpack called my cell and opened my laptop to post on my Facebook wall. This led to an influx of friends calling and messaging because the post sounded suspiciously like I had been kidnapped. This was really a fine example of humans looking out for each other and was a nice bright spot in an otherwise giant hassle of day. The rest of the day was spent sorting out paperwork at the police station and rental car agency, driving hours to retrieve my backpack and then it was a mad rush to the airport where Scott sweet talked security in order to board the flight without his (now stolen) passport. Lessons to take away from this: the $11 extra car insurance is worth it and travel insurance is always a good idea. 

But, all in all, no real harm done. Everyone was still alive, with just less baggage to check. So, I still love you, San Francisco. You beautiful, apparently crime riddled city. AND since we did get my external hard drive back I was able to edit the video that this whole road trip for! We shot it all with a GoPro and here it is, if you'd like to see:

It was a great California Road Trip, even if the end was a bit more of an adventure than we had planned.

BIG SUR

I was super excited to show Scott the wonder that is Big Sur, but then I was a little concerned that he might actually be completely unphased by it since New Zealand (his homeland) is all dramatic coast lines, plunging cliffs, winding green wilderness over bright blue oceans, etc. Luckily (and appropriately), he was enamored with it as I am.

Big Sur
No photos before coffee. 

No photos before coffee. 

We pulled over for the stunning views and a back-of-the-van peanut butter muesli and banana breakfast. I also made sure we stopped at the tiny + charming Big Sur Bakery for a strawberry scone. 

Being from the east coast, I kind of forget that the USA has landscape like this and it's easy to see why it attracted creative folks like Kerouac and Hunter S. Thompson. Big Sur is just so giant and incredible, it's good reminder that it's a big wide world out there -- even in your own country. 

ALONG THE PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY

We met a group of bros who had just graduated from Bible College and they led us down to a cove near Avila Beach. And baptized us. Just kidding. They were Bible College grads though. Real nice chaps.

We met a group of bros who had just graduated from Bible College and they led us down to a cove near Avila Beach. And baptized us. Just kidding. They were Bible College grads though. Real nice chaps.

AvilaRocks
Precise point this photo was taken. 

Precise point this photo was taken. 

Over the Pacific.

Over the Pacific.

Fruit stand stop.

Fruit stand stop.

Lake Casitas, the only Lake I've ever encountered where swimming is prohibited.

Lake Casitas, the only Lake I've ever encountered where swimming is prohibited.

Santa Barbara street art. 

Santa Barbara street art. 

Santa Barbara Steps
Santa Barbara Pier.

Santa Barbara Pier.

Avila Beach.

Avila Beach.

Seals created a Big Giant Bed at sunset. 

Seals created a Big Giant Bed at sunset. 

Along Highway 1 we stopped at a fruit stand in Guadalupe where I unnecessarily whipped out my limited Spanish ("que es?" "that's a nectarine." "ahhh si, muchas gracias"). Scott also experienced Urban Outfitters for the first time and could not, for the life of him, imagine why anyone would want to live in lovely, gorgeous Santa Barbara ("There's no waves!").  

It was a big stretch of highway up to Big Sur which called for good driving music, so from me to you: here's a mix. Enjoy it on your next road trip, even if it's your morning commute. 

OJAI

Driving North we pulled off at the exit for Ojai because I vaguely remembered hearing good things about the little town. We ended up doing a sweaty trail run/hike in the steep dry mountains, encountering a massive snake and stealing oranges from a local grove for breakfast. All around, a good detour. 

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LOS ANGELES

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Handball courts
Boardwalk
Hollywood

U-turning in San Diego, we headed back north to Los Angeles for what was the best part of the trip.

We wandered around Venice Beach admiring: the skateboarders who seem to have the laws of physics working differently for them, giant hulks of humans at Muscle Beach and a flamboyant 3 PM roller skating dance party that make you wonder why that isn't more common of a thing. In an effort to not look like someone living out of a van while living out of a van, I shampooed and conditioned at the beach showers meant to only wash off sand and applied mascara in the rear view mirror. One day, we rented bikes and rode from Venice Beach to Manhattan Beach, making our 3rd trip to Sloopy's (what a website!) and one night, we walked the Santa Monica Pier. Scott schemed ways to climb up to the Hollywood sign but had to settle for the view from the Griffith Observatory. But we learned a bit about space while up there which led us to creatively curse at each other "yeah, well, I hope you get hit by a moon rock" whenever we fought. We ate a retro diner in Los Feliz, gawked at the mansions in Beverly Hills, cruised Rodeo Drive and drank bad flat whites and good cappuccinos in Silver Lake. 

People hate LA but I can't say I mind it at all. 

SAN DIEGO

LA has a real hustle to it between the traffic jams and San Francisco exudes wifi and an entrepreneurial spirit, but San Diego is just straight up breezy and laaaaid back. 

We mostly split our time between Pacific Beach and Ocean Beach, running on the cliffs and enjoying the water. Everyone seemed to be either eating ice cream on the boardwalk or going for a mid-afternoon run. I know it must happen, but I just can't imagine anyone heading to the office in San Diego. 

Giant organ practice in Balboa Park. 

Giant organ practice in Balboa Park. 

Once we ventured downtown, I was mighty impressed by the pristine city streets and the charming Gas Lamp District. We toured the USS Midway, wandered around Balboa Park and had Taco Tuesday in fancy La Jolla even though it was really Taco Everyday. 

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We also had a big day out at the San Diego Zoo's Safari Park which was as hot as the Serengeti. We were shameless tourists with my DSLR telephoto lens and Scott's GoPro steadicam, shooting everything, ooh-ing and ahh-ing over the gorillas and eating slushies. 

San Diego's a real good time. 

SAN CLEMENTE + ENCINITAS

Heading further south down California's Highway 1, two of my favorite spots were San Clemente + Encinitas. 

San Clemente Pier

San Clemente Pier

Proving that Brass dresses are so versatile that you can look presentable in one even while living out of a van. 

Proving that Brass dresses are so versatile that you can look presentable in one even while living out of a van. 

San Clemente is a "Spanish Village by the Sea" founded by a land developer named Hanson who envisioned a Mediterranean style coastal resort town and wanted it to serve as a haven for Californians tired of the big city. I'd say he succeeded. We surfed Trestles, bought fruits and veggies at the farmers market, fell hard for Acai Bowls and were able to wake up, roll out of our van and land right on the beach. 

Door at Swami's

Door at Swami's

About 40 minutes south of San Clemente, is Encinitas. It's a little grittier but it has big cliffs, beautiful views, is home to the famous surf break "Swami's" AND it's accompanying cafe that has, in my opinion, iced mochas that should be equally as famous.

It was long days at the beach in both little communities, slathering on sunscreen as soon as we woke up and falling asleep in the back of the van as soon as the sun went down, still salty from the water. 

START OF THE CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIP

In August, Scott and I met in LA to team up with JUCY Rentals.  We did 2 week road trip along California's Pacific Coast Highway to make  a little video to show off their camper van, The Champ

The Champ, loud and proud. 

The Champ, loud and proud. 

After picking The Champ, we headed south for a night in Huntington Beach which was (in Scott's words) "absolute carnage" due to the Vans US Open of Surf being on and taking over the main strip. 

HuntingtonBeach
HuntingtonBeachPier

California RV sites can get pretty pricey during the summer, so we took the frugal route and opted to park/sleep at any quiet side-of-the-road we could find. Luckily, despite having a very obviously bright green and purple camper van, we didn't encounter much trouble with this method. Only one Park Ranger came knocking at 3 AM in SF Golden Gate Park... but Scott charmed him with his accent and I stayed quiet to seem like an innocent foreigner. AND we were able to put that saved money towards more important things, like fish tacos. They became a staple food group on the road, starting at George's Grill in Huntington and continuing on for the next 14 days straight. 

 

A QUICK UPDATE - FROM INDONESIA

I'm in Bali! And it's awesome. It's awesome to the point where I now regret using the word "awesome" to describe things like muffins or getting out of work early, because this island I'm on is actually so awe-inspiring and excellent that I don't have the vocabulary to describe it. 

Scott and I rented this scooter for 5 weeks and the speedometer doesn't work but at $2 USD a day, who can complain. 

Scott and I rented this scooter for 5 weeks and the speedometer doesn't work but at $2 USD a day, who can complain. 

Bali is extremely photogenic, so expect many updates. Until then, August was a particularly good month with a California road trip and a few wonderful weeks at home before flying here... so stay tuned for some American posts too. Soon!