We bought a van, named her Deborah Vance, converted her into a campervan, then went across the country and back over 6 weeks in summer 2025.
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About
TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING
in New Zealand, About
One of the highlights of my 4-month stint in New Zealand back in 2019 was completing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
The full-day hike covered a wide range of landscapes, including fluorescent green lakes and desert-y stretches that felt like we were walking around on Mars.
Casual lunch break in front of an active volcano
The 12-ish mile hike passes over volcanic terrain, through craters and around the Emerald and Blue Lakes.
Since the hike requires an early morning start, we stayed at the nearby Awhi Farm in the foothills of Mount Ruapehu and experienced 2 nights of camping at the rustic farm.
Manuka honey bees
Fresh veggies galore
Camp kitchen
We enjoyed cooking in the outdoor camp kitchen with fresh eggs, veggies and honey from the farm but my favorite part of our visit was hanging with the kune pig who acted like the family dog.
PUSHKAR TO JAIPUR
We left Pushkar and rode 100 miles northeast to Jaipur, “The Pink City”.
Whenever we stopped for gas, a small crowd always formed around Scott. I don’t think a lot of New Zealanders frequent these gas stations.
Red eyes, full hearts, can’t drink the water.
Pit stop.
Arriving in Jaipur.
Hawa Mahal, built in 1779.
It was built for Rajput women (a social class that adopted the custom of “purdah”, the practice of female seclusion). The women were not allowed to appear in public places but could hang out in the fort be able to watch the royal processions and see what’s going on in the city from the windows and small balconies. It was said to give the women a sense of freedom, without appearing in public.
The city was painted pink in 1876 for the arrival of the Price of Wales, who later became the Emperor of India.
I think it’s actually more of a “terra cotta” but what a welcome.
FREMANTLE, AUSTRALIA
It's nice to return a place that you were enamored with when you were 20 and realize that it wasn't just youthful foolishness that had you swooning. Fremantle is a hippie port city that I frequented when I studied abroad then later moved to when the travel bug hit hard, post-college. I'm happy to report that with it's Victorian architecture, eclectic markets and eccentric residents... it's still as delightful as ever.
I visited my old place of an employment: Little Creatures Brewery. Still has the best pale ales and frites (friench fries) + aoli in the world.
We spent a couple of afternoons poking our heads into artists studios and eating our way through the Freo markets. Fremantle seemed slightly smaller than I remembered (I've covered far more ground now then I had back then) but even more charming.
If you ever find yourself in Perth (fun fact: it's the most isolated city in the world!) make sure you take the train down to the wonderful little gem that is Fremantle.
SHOTS FROM THE BACK OF THE SCOOTER
Renting a scooter is hands down, the best way to see Bali. We've taken ours on highways, dirt roads, city streets and up mountains. It's bananas maneuvering it in busy areas, as other bikers weave every which way like swarms of bees through traffic, including up onto sidewalks. Luckily, Scott had his motorbike license back in New Zealand so he has the quick instincts needed to drive it so I can just direct him via Google Maps and hold on for dear life. I've also been taking photos as we cruise around, so below are a few I took from the back of the bike if you'd like to see...
Side of the road chicken satay.
Side of the road sticker stand.
NICE, FRANCE
Nice, France deserves it's name.
Within an hour of arriving I was on the beach, swimming in the French Riviera and very, very pleased. Nice is super clean, warm and colorful. It has tight, winding alley-ways around the Vielle Ville (Old Town) and a vast turquoise ocean that seems to curve over the horizon. It's really quite nice.